AHA vs BHA: Which Exfoliating Acid Is Right for Your Skin?

If you’re into skincare, chances are you’ve heard about chemical exfoliants—specifically AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids). These powerhouse ingredients are found in everything from toners to serums, promising smoother, brighter, and clearer skin. But what do they actually do? And more importantly, which one is right for your skin?

In this blog, we’ll break down everything you need to know about AHA vs BHA—including how they work, their unique benefits, and which skin types they’re best suited for.

What Are Chemical Exfoliants?

Unlike physical exfoliants that use scrubs or beads to manually slough off dead skin cells, chemical exfoliants dissolve the bonds between skin cells, allowing them to shed naturally. This results in a smoother texture, unclogged pores, and a fresher appearance without the risk of micro-tears or irritation from scrubbing.

The two most common types of chemical exfoliants are:

• AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) – water-soluble and works on the skin’s surface
• BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) – oil-soluble and penetrates deeper into pores

Each has its own strengths and ideal use cases, making it important to understand the difference before incorporating them into your skincare routine. 

What is AHA?

AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from fruits, milk, or sugar. They exfoliate the top layer of skin by loosening dead cells and encouraging cell turnover.

Common Types of AHAs:

• Glycolic acid – the most potent and widely studied AHA, derived from sugarcane
• Lactic acid – gentler, derived from milk, and great for sensitive skin
• Mandelic acid – derived from almonds; larger molecule size makes it mild yet effective
• Citric acid – derived from citrus fruits; often used to balance pH 

Benefits of AHAs:

• Smooths rough or uneven texture
• Fades dark spots and hyperpigmentation
• Minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Boosts collagen production
• Brightens dull skin

AHAs are best for normal, dry, or sun-damaged skin, and are especially effective for addressing concerns on the skin’s surface like tone and texture. 

What is BHA?

BHAs are oil-soluble acids, which means they can penetrate deeper into the skin and dissolve oil and debris within the pores. The most common BHA used in skincare is salicylic acid. 

Benefits of BHA (Salicylic Acid):

• Unclogs pores and reduces blackheads
• Fights acne by targeting bacteria and inflammation
• Reduces excess oil production
• Calms redness and soothes inflamed skin

BHAs are ideal for oily, combination, acne-prone, or sensitive skin types. If you deal with clogged pores, breakouts, or inflammation, BHA might be your go-to exfoliant.

AHA vs BHA: Key Differences

Can You Use AHA and BHA Together?

The short answer: Yes, but with caution.

Using both can be beneficial if you have combination skin—AHAs can target dryness and dullness, while BHAs handle oiliness and congestion. However, combining acids increases the risk of irritation, redness, and over-exfoliation.

Tips for using them together:

• Alternate use: Apply AHA one night and BHA the next.
• Use a combo product: Choose a formulation that contains both in safe, balanced concentrations.
• Introduce slowly: Start 2–3 times a week and monitor your skin’s reaction.

At Ruby Vibe Co., we advocate for balance and barrier protection. Our exfoliating formulas are crafted with soothing, hydrating ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and botanical extracts to ensure effective exfoliation without compromising your skin’s health. 

How to Safely Use AHA and BHA

Regardless of which acid you choose, here are some best practices to follow:

1. Patch Test First

Always patch test new exfoliants on a small area of skin to check for any adverse reactions.

2. Start Low and Slow

Begin with a low concentration (5–10% for AHAs; 1–2% for BHAs) and apply 2–3 times per week. Gradually increase frequency as tolerated.

3. Moisturize Well

Acids can disrupt the skin barrier. Follow up with a nourishing, fragrance-free moisturizer to lock in hydration.

4. Use Sunscreen Daily

Chemical exfoliants can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays. Always apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day. 

Choosing the Right Acid for Your Skin

Still unsure which exfoliant is right for you? Here’s a quick breakdown:

• Choose AHA if you have:
  • Dry, flaky, or dull skin
  • Uneven tone or texture
  • Fine lines or sun spots
• Choose BHA if you have:
  • Oily or acne-prone skin
  • Clogged pores or blackheads
  • Redness or sensitivity
• Use both (carefully) if you:
  • Have combination skin
  • Want to target both surface and pore-level issues 

Final Thoughts

AHAs and BHAs are more than just trendy ingredients—they’re scientifically proven tools that can transform your skin when used correctly. By understanding their differences and benefits, you can choose the exfoliant that best matches your skin type and goals.

Remember, exfoliation is not about doing more – it’s about doing it smarter. Support your skin barrier, hydrate well, and always protect your skin with SPF. When used wisely, these acids can give you the smooth, radiant, and balanced complexion you’ve always wanted.

Explore exfoliating formulas crafted for real skin at Ruby Vibe Co. where science meets gentle skincare, and your glow begins with the right ingredients.